While enjoying the sunshine of the Oregon coast at Boice-Cope Park we met Rod, a fellow camper. We had a nice visit and just before leaving Rod came over and gave us the little canoe paddle he carved last night, “Something to remember me by!”
As some of you know, given our limited space, we have been pretty selective on picking up souvenirs.
The first souvenir was the braciopod Hillary, the Archeologist, gave us in Wyoming.
The second was the Moon Snail from Haida Gwaii given to us by Mark in British Columbia.
And the third, and newest, is the Little Paddle!
Each holds a memory of a nice spot and a new, or old, friend!
Last night, a Westifalia camped near us. As usual, we began the usual comparing of vehicles. Darrin asked where they were headed. They said they needed to be in Seattle in a week or so to have a Subaru engine convesion done on the Westy! So are we! This lead to a conversation into the angst of plunking down a bunch of money, over the internet, sight unseen, to a business you have never delt with! Fingers crossed both ‘heart transplants’ go well!
Due to the great weather on the Oregon coast all, and I mean ALL, of the state parks down the coast were booked solid. We were only able to stay a few nights at South Beach SP before we had to move on. Google maps to the rescue! A tiny red dot on the map led us to Boice-Cope County Park. A great little park with about 30 sites beside Lake Floras and the Ocean a bit beyond. Power, water, showers, laundry, wifi and a fun traveler’s vibe for $25 a night. Perfect place to spend some time on the ocean relaxing.
Our first day on the Oregon coast and the sun is shining!
Not a rain cloud in sight!!!!!!
South Beach State Park is a huge campground, just over the dunes from the Pacific Ocean and just south of Newport Harbor. A new ocean and yes, the first thing we did after we set-up camp was walk over the dunes and dip our toes (okay, our fingers) in the water. Three oceans down, one to go!
Day two, and with the promise of sea lion sightings, we hiked down to the jetty and over to the Newport public pier. We only got a distant glimpse of the noisy sea lions we could hear from our campsite (they are amazingly loud animals), but we had a great time walking the pier and visiting with the people crabbing.
After the tour, Richard asked about the rover, our journey so far, and our destinations. He was in a bit of a rush as our tour made him late for dinner with Camilla, his lady friend. We set to meet in the Aft Lounge/Stateroom later.
Later that evening we met to share travel tales. We quickly gave the overview of the wee Rover, preparations, and then the travel so far. Richard then filled us in on his Toyota, and his shared dream of travel to South America. It was a great evening with a shared spirit and a new friend.
On our last day on the ferry, we were invited on a tour of the bridge and engine room. While on the bridge Darrin of course asked, “Can I drive?!?” The Captain, a young woman, thought about it for a few seconds, shrugged and said, “Sure, I guess so.” Darrin took the wheel and the captain ordered a small course correction. Darrin quickly realized the wheel was very sensitive, similar to flying an airplane, small corrections, overshoot the heading, correct the other way, small zigzags that from a distance look like a straight line (hopefully). Darrin only had the helm (sailor talk) for a few minutes, but I think he really enjoyed himself.
I, Darrin, went down to the engine room next as Melissa wasn’t too keen on the noise below. The small group of passengers were met by Richard the Chief Engineer of the boat. Richard asked where everyone was from, when I said, Vermont. He replied, I would like to talk to you after about some other things. I knew the wee Rover had been spotted again!
We had a great tour and learned a lot about the ferry and what it takes to keep a little city running 24 hours a day. He showed us how the power moves the ship, heats or cools the ship, pumps the water, all of the things that happen, that as a passenger, we take for granted.
One funny thing I wanted to pass on. Before going on the tours, we were standing on the veranda of our Aft Lounge/stateroom with another couple watching for wildlife. The same couple was on the tour with me when I noticed on the wall was a security camera feed of our little veranda giving a view behind the ship! I pointed it out and we all started laughing. I guess they caught our little show as we were jumping around high fiving each other when we saw the whales, porpoises, sea lions, and otters!
During our 5 weeks in Alaska, we kept returning to the theme of extremes. From weather to landscape to people, we feel there are few words that can describe all of Alaska. It is truly a land of extremes.
Climate: We had temperatures as high as 93 and as low as 43. We had blazing sun, pouring rain and hail. We had wind that pushed the rain into every crevise, calm days that were so socked in you felt like you were in the clouds and weeks of rain that overflowed the banks of rivers and turned the gravel roads into streams. There were weeks when the sun circled the sky and never set and weeks of rain when we didn’t see the sun. And we only saw the moon twice during the time we were in Alaska and both nights it was full and bright.
Terrain: We traveled over the Brooks Range at Antigun Pass to the north slope and the tundra and were lucky enough to view all 20,310 feet of Mt Denali. We camped on rushing mountain rivers in the far north and sat on the ocean shore of Prince William Sound. We camped up in the clouds at the foot of glaciers and drove through huge areas burnt from forest fires.
Animals: We saw caribou and harbor seals, musk ox and orcas, moose and humpbacks, wolves and sea otters, ravens and black oystercatchers, reindeer and river otters, a stream choked with the salmon run and bald eagles, and mosquitoes the size of humpbacks.
Roads: There are very few roads in Alaska where the main mode of transpsortation is plane or boat. There are the roads of the far north that are made of rocks, gravel, and broken pavement that twist and turn and go up and down like a roller coaster. Roads that you can travel for hours without seeing another car or constantly meet trucks heading for the oil fields. And there is the triangle of paved roads in the south central that are choked with traffic, RVs and cruiseline buses that are in a rush to get somewhere and locals trying to get home or to work. And there are the narrow roads to the coast that are bumper to bumper with tourists all trying to get the most of their 2 week holiday. The coastal areas are linked by one of the largest road systems in Alaska, the ferry. You can travel to the southern areas and islands of Alaska easily with your car, RV, bike or on foot.
Bust or Boom: We met crews in the far north who were mining for gold and saw towns that were remnants of past gold rushes. We saw areas that were booming from tourism and small rundown towns and resorts that were from an era before RVs. We drove through areas where people were barely eeking out a living while tourists were flying by in their large RVs. There are large cities like Anchorage and Fairbanks and small communities like Eagle and the very diverse people that live in both. And there are large tracts of land that seem devoid of human population known only to hunters, trappers and the animals that call it home.
We barely scratched the surface of what Alaska has to offer since most of Alaska is only accessible via plane and boat and visiting during the few warm months deprives the traveler of the bulk of Alaska’s jewels.
If we were to return to Alaska, we would travel during an off season to avoid the crowds and to see the other sides of Alaska, they say the winter views are amazing including the Aurora Borealis, and we would travel in a hard sided vehicle since most of the camping in Alaska is roadside because of the permafrost, thick forests and ocean, and the climate can be unpredictable (read above). We would also venture off road and travel to some of the more remote parts of Alaska via plane or boat.