Don’t Judge a Book by its Cover

National Parks and Monuments aren’t normally our first choice, mainly because of the crowds. We prefer the smaller, out of the way places, where one can sit and really absorb in relative peace.

While visiting the small park at Hovenweep, we encountered an older woman who at first, to be honest, was quite loud and annoying, just the type of people we try to avoid. She was spouting to anyone within hearing distance how much she knew about the southwest and ancient ruins…we gave her a wide berth only to run smack into her!! Darrin, being nicer and more social, answered her call to engage in conversation. Much to our chagrin, she turned out to be a very nice woman who actually was a wealth of information. She and her husband had not only worked at Mesa Verde, but had written books for several parks in the area. The old “don’t judge a book by its cover” smacked us in the butt.

What is the point of all this rambling?

During our conversation with her, she told us the best part of Mesa Verde was the Mesa Top Loop…and she was right. This loop takes you from early Pithouses constructed as far back as 600 A.D. to the above ground Pueblos and Cliff Dwellings dating to the 1300’s. It was an incredibly fascinating loop through history. I don’t know her name to thank her for the advice, perhaps the universe will make her ears burn every time someone reads this.

We enjoyed our visit to Mesa Verde, but as usual we prefer the smaller parks. If we were to visit again, we would come about a month earlier so we could tour one of the cliff dwellings. We were too late in the season.

The original pithouses were shallow, 2 rooms consisting of the living area and storage area and were covered with wood and thatch. They were cool in the summer and warm in the winter with a central fire and rooftop ladder. Made of mud plaster and wood, they needed constant repair.
The next version of the pithouse is deeper, has some rocks added for structure and a fresh feed vent hole in the back.
This dig site shows 3 stages of building evolution: an original foundation of mud plaster (front), a foundation with a single rock wall (far back), and the newer double wall construction (middle).
Diorama constructed by the CCC in the museum shows the transition from pithouses (tranformed into kivas) to above ground pueblos.
And the final move to cliff dwellings.
Another diorama showing a cliff dwelling. I love these little miniatures, reminds me of the movie Night at the Museum!

Hovenweep

Another beautiful day in southern Utah and another National Monument preserving the Ancestral Puebloan ruins. The structures here date about the same as the Navajo Monument we visited earlier in the week, but are different in that they were built into canyon-heads instead of under a pre-existing cliff in a canyon.

Time and erosion have taken most of the buildings that were constructed on the sandstone leaving only those built on the more solid rock. When viewing the ruins, you need to use your imagination to fill in the lost buildings that would have connected these remaining structures, creating a small city network of rooftop paths and ladders from the canyon bottom up to the mesa rim.

The buildings that connected this building to the canyon floor are long gone. A house is only as good as its foundation, sand isn’t a great foundation.
Mi casa, su casa.
We felt like we were walking in their footsteps as we traversed the canyon.
These ruins reminded us of castle ruins we had seen in Scotland.