The gas stations are sparse and very utilitarian up here!
Do Bears Shit in the Woods?
Well, I think they probably do, but…they also shit on paved roads, gravel roads, dirt roads…well any kind of road.
What is up with that?
My boy and his rig
Yukon Territory Campgrounds
The Yukon has amazing campgrounds!
Think state campgrounds in the US, but way better. The campgrounds are $12 CAD or about $9 USD, are lightly used, are in beautiful places, are quiet, and provide free firewood. We are in love! We could have spent a month here, at least!
Campbell Hwy (aka really long dirt road)
We are in the Yukon!
How cool is that…and no we haven’t seen Yukon Cornelius, yet. We will be on the look-out!
We left the Stewart-Cassier Highway and got onto the Alaskan Highway for exactly 14 miles. We can now say we have been on the Alaskan Highway…too many RVs and trucks for our Rig and our style.
We turned off in Watson Lake and headed into town for provisions and information on the wildfire that was burning near the Robert Campbell Highway(highway up here is a very loose term), our intended route. A quick stop at the visitor’s center where the sign post thingee is from when they built the Alaskan Highway, cool but not quite our taste, and the grocery store and we were off. The wildfire was still west of our route and although there were smoke advisories, and some evacuations we were cleared to head north.
The Robert Campbell Highway started off paved, quickly turned to hard pack and then to gravel. Once again, we were reminded of the Maine logging parcels we drive on back home to go canoeing, long dirt roads surrounded by pines. The only difference was the huge swaths of burnt areas from previous wildfires, they were a little unsettling. Wildfires up here are just part of life. No one seems upset. They keep the forest regenerating. We have now gotten used to seein huge swaths of burnt trees.
During the 370 km (that’s about 230 miles for those in the States) we traveled, we saw more bears than vehicles. That would be 4 black bears, a lynx, a really cool black and brown fox and a momma grizzly with her cub (and yes, we only saw 3 pick-ups the whole way in). Oh, and we saw a few flurries. Good thing we packed warm gear.
About halfway , we stayed 2 nights in a Yukon Provincial campground on Frances Lake, I know we splurged and spent $12 CAD a night. It is absolutely beautiful and peaceful. We thought we would be the only ones there, due to the low volume of traffic, all going the other way, but surprise, surprise there were about 12 other campers already there (there are only 24 sites).
The Stewart-Cassier Highway (Rt 37)
The Stewart-Cassier Highway (Rt 37)
As we thought about driving to Alaska (the first thing was…holy crap…we are driving to Alaska!) the question of which route came up. We were sitting in the ‘Sound of Music Meadow’ dispersed campsite (an amazing little spot way up in the hills) in Montana pouring over the maps. The AlCan (Alaskan Highway) would have been the obvious choice. But wait, what’s this little route over to the west? Route 37? The Stewart-Cassier Highway? Never heard of it, lightly used, long stretches through the mountains, perfect!
As soon as we hit The Stewart-Cassier it felt right. We found a little city park and several BC campgrounds (all free). Glaciers, the mountains, the great bear scare!, more mountains, more glaciers, wolves, bears, lynx, totems, no traffic, no guardrails, no cell service, 470 miles of awesome!
We did end up hitting the AlCan; all of 14 miles from Rt. 37 to Watson Lake!
Bear Lake
It was a cold and rainy afternoon when two road weary travelers rolled into Stewart, British Columbia in search of a place to rest their tired bones. The only campground in town was closed, for renovations, not to open until the following year. The exhausted travelers stumbled into the local tourist office seeking advice from the local elder. She shook her head and in a quiet voice told them the legend of the phantom bear of Clements Lake. She pointed her gnarled finger up the street at the local motel and told them they better bunk in for the night.
The travelers emptied their pockets and counted their pennies, not enough. The old woman looked down at the floor silently contemplating. She knew the owner of the motel to be a hard person who would not take pity or offer a handout. She slowly raised her eyes and gave the travelers directions to Clements Lake. Thanking her the travelers took a deep a breath and left as the old woman chanted a blessing.
Climbing into their old rig and heading north out of town the travelers found the turn off for Clements Lake. The sign hung askew on a rusted metal post, the road showed very little traffic. Easing onto the rutted lane they inched their way up to the lake. It was a beautiful place, a small lake with mountain waterfalls crashing down in the distance. Could this be the place of legend? The peaceful surroundings were in stark contrast with the old woman’s story. Was she playing a local trick?
Picking a site, there were only 2, the travelers set up their rig and jumped in the cold lake to wash off the road dust. They had just finished, thank goodness, when in drives an RCMP vehicle. The ranger rolled down his window and wanted to know if they had seen a crazed grizzly. The travelers having decided this was all a joke shook their heads laughing. Giving the travelers a funny look, the ranger told them an aggressive grizzly was charging log trucks on the main road and to ‘keep an eye out’, oh and cool Rover. He then spun his SUV around and spit rocks as he raced out of the park.
Totally confused at this point, the travelers settled in for an uneasy night.
Sweet dreams!
We later learned the lake is known as Bear Lake by the locals for the number of Grizzlies that hang around that area.
We are heading up the Dempster Highway into the Northwest Territory and to the North Sea, to put our toes in the water. We will probably be out of touch for 10 days or more.
Happy trails everyone!
Fresh Fish Fry
Yesterday, we traveled miles and miles across land that looked just like northern Maine paper company land. We passed more wood trucks than I could count (logs, boards, sawdust, and every other type of wood imaginable) and trains carrying the same. The British Columbia wood industry is Maine on steroids.
Last nightwe found a small British Columbia recreation area, Cobb Lake. BC has these recreation areas everywhere. A local told us to go to the ones with small signs because they are usually free, the ones with big signs cost $$$, great tip! Our neighbors were there for the week fishing. We met them while looking for the pit toilets (and got the lowdown on which ones not to use, always good to know). They had just caught a bunch of lake trout and invited us over for dinner (after a quick swim in the lake to wash off the road dust). So, last night we dined on fresh fish while watching Bald Eagles and listening to loons. A great evening.
Today, we put in quite a few miles to get us to the start of the Stewart-Cassier Hwy or Rt. 37 that will take us to the Yukon. The terrain has turned mountainous again and breathtaking. Tonight, we are sitting in a small community camping area next to a wood processing plant that will hopefully shut down by bedtime, it just went off-line, sweet.
I’m not sure what we will have for cell service heading up Rt 37, so I will blog again when I can, if Yogi doesn’tnibble on us😋.
Boy do we smell purty
Today was cook, shower and do laundry day…in that order, oh and hit DQ to keep the boy happy.
We were 10 days out from our last shower (we did do a dip in a mt stream a week or so ago) and a lot longer since we did laundry. There is a small laundromat in town that offers showers for $3 and reasonable laundry machines (no motel or RV Park needed). We smell much better, but not bear food worthy.
We also cooked 4 meals so we can just reheat when we pull into a site.
A work day overall, but well worth it. When I took my hat off to take a shower, my hair stood straight up on its own😅.
We r staying in a nice town campground for $12 a night usd. It has 10 sites, all but 2 are filled right now and it is only 6:30. There is a sweet little river with a cool waterfall that used to be a sawmill. And it is all right within walking distance of town.
I think I can, I think I can…
The little Rover huffed and puffed her way over Canada’s Glacier Park today. There was snow on the peaks and even down into the valleys. The park still isn’t fully open for the season because they are still clearing avalanches!
The coolest or perhaps the scariest part was the avalanche tunnels. Imagine being in one when an avalanche lets go? Egads….
