Don’t Judge a Book by its Cover

National Parks and Monuments aren’t normally our first choice, mainly because of the crowds. We prefer the smaller, out of the way places, where one can sit and really absorb in relative peace.

While visiting the small park at Hovenweep, we encountered an older woman who at first, to be honest, was quite loud and annoying, just the type of people we try to avoid. She was spouting to anyone within hearing distance how much she knew about the southwest and ancient ruins…we gave her a wide berth only to run smack into her!! Darrin, being nicer and more social, answered her call to engage in conversation. Much to our chagrin, she turned out to be a very nice woman who actually was a wealth of information. She and her husband had not only worked at Mesa Verde, but had written books for several parks in the area. The old “don’t judge a book by its cover” smacked us in the butt.

What is the point of all this rambling?

During our conversation with her, she told us the best part of Mesa Verde was the Mesa Top Loop…and she was right. This loop takes you from early Pithouses constructed as far back as 600 A.D. to the above ground Pueblos and Cliff Dwellings dating to the 1300’s. It was an incredibly fascinating loop through history. I don’t know her name to thank her for the advice, perhaps the universe will make her ears burn every time someone reads this.

We enjoyed our visit to Mesa Verde, but as usual we prefer the smaller parks. If we were to visit again, we would come about a month earlier so we could tour one of the cliff dwellings. We were too late in the season.

The original pithouses were shallow, 2 rooms consisting of the living area and storage area and were covered with wood and thatch. They were cool in the summer and warm in the winter with a central fire and rooftop ladder. Made of mud plaster and wood, they needed constant repair.
The next version of the pithouse is deeper, has some rocks added for structure and a fresh feed vent hole in the back.
This dig site shows 3 stages of building evolution: an original foundation of mud plaster (front), a foundation with a single rock wall (far back), and the newer double wall construction (middle).
Diorama constructed by the CCC in the museum shows the transition from pithouses (tranformed into kivas) to above ground pueblos.
And the final move to cliff dwellings.
Another diorama showing a cliff dwelling. I love these little miniatures, reminds me of the movie Night at the Museum!

Ghost Berries in the Canyon of the Ancients

Found a sweet little spot above the Lowery Pueblo in the Canyon of the Ancients National Monument on BLM land and decided to lay over for a rest day. The hammocks went up, we hiked the rim of the canyon, and ghost berries were processed! Someone made a fort!

These little cacti were everywhere and stuck to clothes and shoes. Darrin accidentally sat on one😖
Juniper or Ghost berry pits/seeds are used to create jewelry. We were told they are collected in the spring after the squirrels have eaten the berry flesh. We decided not to wait for spring and the squirrels and opened a few up.
Nice and cozy. We are still on the border of cold weather.
We have got to stop finding cool places and get south!
Our own canyon rim view 25 ft from our camping spot.
With a gorgeous sunset!!
Lowry Pueblo was a small ruin built on the top of the mesa instead of in a canyon. Like the other ruins in the area, it was abandoned around 1300.
Remains of a large kiva which would have been used for community activities and important ceremonies. The stone platforms inside are thought to represent summer people and winter people and contained holes for four wooden beams which supported the ceiling..
A long reach down inside the kiva to show the amazing stone work.
From a sign at Lowry Pueblo.

Hovenweep

Another beautiful day in southern Utah and another National Monument preserving the Ancestral Puebloan ruins. The structures here date about the same as the Navajo Monument we visited earlier in the week, but are different in that they were built into canyon-heads instead of under a pre-existing cliff in a canyon.

Time and erosion have taken most of the buildings that were constructed on the sandstone leaving only those built on the more solid rock. When viewing the ruins, you need to use your imagination to fill in the lost buildings that would have connected these remaining structures, creating a small city network of rooftop paths and ladders from the canyon bottom up to the mesa rim.

The buildings that connected this building to the canyon floor are long gone. A house is only as good as its foundation, sand isn’t a great foundation.
Mi casa, su casa.
We felt like we were walking in their footsteps as we traversed the canyon.
These ruins reminded us of castle ruins we had seen in Scotland.

Valley of the Gods

We found a great dispersed camping spot on BLM land right below Mexican Hat. While there, we chatted with our friend Dan from Arizona (we met Dan remote camping in the Badlands last summer) about places we should visit. He mentioned Valley of the Gods. We looked at the map and it was right across the road…why not?

The 17 mile drive, and another night dispersed camping in the valley, was spectacular. It is called a mini Monument Valley, and to be honest, we liked it a lot better. It was a quiet dirt road with minimal traffic (probably busier during the summer), lots of those red rocks we love, lots of stars and a Sentinel watching over us as we slept.

Thanks Dan for the tip!

A day of up, down, and around!

The Muley Point road should have intersected the dirt road we took along the Goosenecks, but we never found it. Well, we soon discover why! Muley Point is on the top of the butte, and we were hugging the bottom edge of the butte.

A quick look at the map and we found a 3 mile, 5 mile per hour, dirt, steep, really steep, set of switchbacks up the cliff face of the butte called Mokie Dugway that connected the bottom to the top. We dropped the Wee Rover into second gear and headed up!

Steep, twisting, no guardrail, dirt, drop offs, brings us to Muley Point and one of our best coffee break spots of the trip, and on the way back down we made a friend!

The Wee Rover was very proud of herself for climbing up the switchbacks, she doesn’t know yet that she has to go back down.
Lunch at Muley’ Point.
The dirt road we drove earlier…no wonder they didn’t intersect.
Our new friend, Charlie ( and his parent’s Dave and Shandi).
Ok, everyone be serious.
Charlie wanted to go with us, but his parent’s said No Way!

Road Less Traversed

Most people who visit the Goosenecks area of southern Utah stay at the state park, look over the edge to the San Juan River and then move on. Us? We skipped the State Park (no surprise there), found the small red dirt road that ran parallel to the goosenecks and San Juan River, and headed out.

Oh my, what a beautiful drive. We encountered our first tumbleweeds, saw pictographs from the Archaic Period (that’s really, really, really old) up close, and saw more beautiful red rocks. We just can’t get enough of the gorgeous red cliffs and spires.

The Wee Rover decided to investigate the tumbleweeds up close. She is a bit of a ham…wonder where she gets it from?
More dust…
Darrin climbed up to get a better look. How many hours do you think it took to chip the rock with a rock?
A perfect likeness, don’t you think?
Not to be outdone,
The wee Rover had to pose a few more times.
Gorgeous

New Friends in Monument Valley

Yea, its awesome! Picturesque! You could see John Wayne riding across with the cavalry. But, what we will remember is spending an hour or more talking with Genny and Ray in their small shop on the Navajo tribal lands. New friends and a new bracelet!

Quinky Dink: Ray grew up near my grandparents in northern NJ. We reminisced about about the area and a particular place we both visited as kids, Space Farm, and our very different memories of the snakes there.

Swooping Back North

The southwest is filled with ancient ruins of the Ancestral Puebloans (formerly called Anasazi). The remains date back hundreds if not thousands of years and are being careful restored, maintained or cared for by the government and/or Native American peoples.

The weather gave us a window of opportunity to swing east and north to visit many of these sites around the Four Corners Region. (No snow chasing us at the moment, balmy 60’s during the day and 20’s at night…we can do that.)

The first area we encountered was a small, off the beaten path, place called Navajo National Monument near Kayenta, Arizona. Knowing nothing about this site, we debated detouring the 10 miles to visit. Once again we decided why not, we were very glad we did. We absolutely love these smaller parks.

The site gave us our first glimpse of amazing structures built almost a thousand years ago. They were permanently occupied from around 1250 to 1300 AD at which time the Ancestral Puebloans departed for the south and west leaving sealed rooms filled with corn. Why did they leave? Were they planning to return?

Yea, I know…
We just can’t help ourselves 😜

North Rim Serenade

9,000ft, on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Wild camping on the high plateau in the most amazing quaking aspen grove. The soil is so thin that the aspen die when they reach 25ft so there is an infinite supply of wood for our campfires. It has been in the low 20’s at night and our 5 gallon jerry cans froze, but the days are warm enough. But, back to the title of this blog. Our dinner is cooking in the pressure cooker, the sun is setting, the fire is warm, and we are being serenaded by a pack of coyotes just on the other side of the grove! For the past few nights it has been a single coyote singing, but tonight he brought in reinforcements! Magic!

Nice spot at 9,000ft.
Plenty of wood for great fires.
Frozen water jugs put out in the sun to thaw.

The Upside Down Fire

The upside down fire, courtesy of Dave Canterbury of the Pathfinder School, is just what it sounds like. The big logs are laid on the bottom. Smaller logs cross ways over the big. Repeat for a few more layers. Then you build your small twig fire on top. As that burns down the lower layers begin to burn. It’s a great fire in that you do all of the work up front. Once you light the upper fire you don’t have to add wood or mess with anything!

Build
Light
And…
Enjoy!