Alaska: The State of Extremes.

During our 5 weeks in Alaska, we kept returning to the theme of extremes. From weather to landscape to people, we feel there are few words that can describe all of Alaska. It is truly a land of extremes.

Climate:  We had temperatures as high as 93 and as low as 43. We had blazing sun, pouring rain and hail. We had wind that pushed the rain into every crevise, calm days that were so socked in you felt like you were in the clouds and weeks of rain that overflowed the banks of rivers and turned the gravel roads into streams. There were weeks when the sun circled the sky and never set and weeks of rain when we didn’t see the sun. And we only saw the moon twice during the time we were in Alaska and both nights it was full and bright.

Eagle, Alaska was the hot spot with temperatures in the 90s!
Camping in the Denali State Park, the temperatures went down into the 40s.

Terrain: We traveled over the Brooks Range at Antigun Pass to the north slope and the tundra and were lucky enough to view all 20,310 feet of Mt Denali. We camped on rushing mountain rivers in the far north and sat on the ocean shore of Prince William Sound. We camped up in the clouds at the foot of glaciers and drove through huge areas burnt from forest fires.

Antigun Pass
Denali…all 20,310 feet.
Prince William Sound

Animals: We saw caribou and harbor seals, musk ox and orcas, moose and humpbacks, wolves and sea otters, ravens and black oystercatchers, reindeer and river otters, a stream choked with the salmon run and bald eagles, and mosquitoes the size of humpbacks.

Hey look! It’s a musk ox!
A river otter eating salmon as they run upstream.

Roads: There are very few roads in Alaska where the main mode of transpsortation is plane or boat. There are the roads of the far north that are made of rocks, gravel, and broken pavement that twist and turn and go up and down like a roller coaster. Roads that you can travel for hours without seeing another car or constantly meet trucks heading for the oil fields. And there is the triangle of paved roads in the south central that are choked with traffic, RVs and cruiseline buses that are in a rush to get somewhere and locals trying to get home or to work. And there are the narrow roads to the coast that are bumper to bumper with tourists all trying to get the most of their 2 week holiday. The coastal areas are linked by one of the largest road systems in Alaska, the ferry. You can travel to the southern areas and islands of Alaska easily with your car, RV, bike or on foot.

The road into Eagle, AK. A bit of gravel with a few drop-offs.
A lighthouse from the ferry in the Inner Passage.

Bust or Boom: We met crews in the far north who were mining for gold and saw towns that were remnants of past gold rushes. We saw areas that were booming from tourism and small rundown towns and resorts that were from an era before RVs. We drove through areas where people were barely eeking out a living while tourists were flying by in their large RVs. There are large cities like Anchorage and Fairbanks and small communities like Eagle and the very diverse people that live in both. And there are large tracts of land that seem devoid of human population known only to hunters, trappers and the animals that call it home.

The miners are very secretive about the locations of thei gold mines. There is still gold in them there hills.

We barely scratched the surface of what Alaska has to offer since most of Alaska is only accessible via plane and boat and visiting during the few warm months deprives the traveler of the bulk of Alaska’s jewels.

If we were to return to Alaska, we would travel during an off season to avoid the crowds and to see the other sides of Alaska, they say the winter views are amazing including the Aurora Borealis, and we would travel in a hard sided vehicle since most of the camping in Alaska is roadside because of the permafrost, thick forests and ocean, and the climate can be unpredictable (read above). We would also venture off road and travel to some of the more remote parts of Alaska via plane or boat.

Alaska, the land of extremes, was quite an adventure. The 5 day fery ride from Whittier to Bellingham was the perfect ending.

 

The Ferry South

We boarded the ferry Monday night at midnight and said our final good-bye to Whittier.

Whittier at midnight from the ferry.

We set-up our “stateroom” and got a few hours sleep. The next morning we awoke to rough seas in the Gulf of Alaska and a bit of sea sickness.  A little bit of dramamine and a little nap, ok a nice long nap that included a bit of drool and a buckle mark on my face from my sack, and we were good to go.

Late afternoon we arrived at our first port, Yukutat. We wandered off the boat for a quick stretch of the legs while a few cars were loaded.

A beautiful sunset in Yakutat. The first sunset we have seen in weeks!

Our second night we started back out to the Gulf of Alaska to head south and encountered huge waves that turned the ship into a roller coaster. Our “stateroom” is in the back of the ship so it was quite a ride, good thing we were laying down! The waves rocked us into a great night sleep.

This morning we awoke to thick fog, the much calmer waters of the Inside Passage and whales! The Orcas were waving their fins at us and breaching. Sorry, we were too busy watching to get any pictures.

We are now docked in Juneau, well 15 miles outside of Juneau. They are loading cars and we will be heading south shortly.

Entering the Juneau harbor.
Another picture entering the harbor.
Juneau harbor

Luxury Suite

Our luxury suite on the ferry.  Our very own stateroom with a water fountain, private bath, window shades and dimmable lights!

It is also known as the Aft Lounge 😁.

The nice lady checking cars in tipped us off that this was a great place to camp out. She said it was quieter and darker than the Solarium where most people camp out.

Score! A private room!

Boats of Distinction

One of our favorite things to do here in Whitier, when it isn’t raining, is to hang out at the harbor. We try to catch a glimpse of the Harbor Seals with their old soul eyes, talk to fisherman, weekend warriors, vacationers, or Princess Cruise travelers and walk along the docks picking out our favorite boats. So, we thought we would share some of that with you, at least the boats, the seals are too elusive to photograph and we are too busy talking to get pictures of people.

Sit back as we take you through a mini harbor tour!

First, let me introduce you to the Harbor Master. We didn’t get his name, he was too busy working!
I don’t know that these are our favorite boats, but since I used to work with the US Forest Service I felt like I should include their fleet of 4 boats. They are here because Whittier is inside the Chugach Forest.
I really like these metal boats.
And another one. And they both had great names.
And then there are the tug like ones like this one,
and this one,
and this one.
This one was Darrin’s favorite. It was an Allweather Boat made to travel anywhere.
This boat gets the award for most potential. With a little work and a different color scheme, the Lime Sherbert Boat could be a cool houseboat.

I hope you enjoyed our mini tour.

The 5 Hour Tour

The forecast predicted a fairly nice day so we jumped on it and turned tourist by booking a 5 hour glacier tour in Prince William Sound (there was a 3 hour tour, but we all know how that one turns out😃). It was awesome! We saw 26 glaciers, sea lions, harbor seals, black bears, bald eagles, and sea otters (which are the cutest thing on earth). We didn’t get to see any whales but maybe on the ferry south we will. We had a great time and made it back to The Bunker safe and sound!

We saw glaciers from afar.
And close up
And really close up. This one was calving and the resulting waves were rocking the boat.
Sea lions enjoying the warmth of the rocks and the sun.
Adorable sea otters who were smart enough to stay away from the boat.
A bit windblown, but no rain!
A fishing boat heading out for the evening.
Whittier from the water. Begich Towers in the middle, deserted Buckner building to the left and Whitttier glacier up above.

Four Months on the Road

We left New England exactly 4 months ago today.

New England to Florida to the Arctic Ocean to Prince William Sound and our ferry south.

We have traveled through eighteen states and three Canadian provinces. The temperatures have ranged from 95 to 45 degrees, with rain, snow, hail, more rain, and baking hot sun. We have seen amazing mountain ranges, glaciers and glacial lakes and crossed the mighty Yukon River a bunch of times. We swam everywhere possible including the Yukon and Klondike Rivers…okay we single dunked in the Klondik…brrrrrr.  We have camped in state parks, city parks, gravel pits and on river banks. We dipped our toes in the Arctic Ocean and crossed the Arctic Circle four times. We spent weeks in the far north where the sun doesn’t set and your brain gets a bit fuzzy from lack of sleep. We have been lucky enough to spot wolves, grizzly bears, black bears, lynx, artic fox, musk ox, moose, caribou, sea otters, sea lions, harbour seals, too many cool birds and wild flowers to list and mosquitoes that I could have put a saddle on and ridden. We have met amazing people and found a few new friends.

What will the next four months bring?

 

 

Home Sweet BTI

Begich Towers, Inc (BTI) houses our current home on the road, aka our affectionately nicknamed mini condo “The Bunker”.  A quick catch-up for those of you who have fallen behind…weeks of chilly rain, soggy camping, grumpy me, new little mini condo (aka The Bunker) in Whittier, Alaska where we will be catching the ferry south, which is a cool old building built to withstand the Cold War now turned condos when the Army pulled out which now house most of the 200+ residents in town and the ameneties they need. Phew…everyone caught up?

Begich towers in pictures. (The plural ‘towers’ is correct.  BTI is actually 3 buildings spaced approximately 8 inches apart to withstand Alaska’s earthquakes, including the big one in 1964 and the resulting wall of water 104 ft high. It is also built to withstand a nuclear blast…remember it was built during the Cold War.) Okay, pictures:

Begich Towers (BTI) in all her freshly painted glory! The town is repainting her and adding some color to spice up the ugly Cold War beige. Very nice job Bob and crew! I am taking this picture from near the harbor. Notice the rail yard between me and BTI? No problem, there is a handy tunnel that goes under the rail yard to connect the harbor with downtown…zoom in and see if you can find the sign pointing to the tunnel.
Darrin in the tunnel…it is a very big rail yard.
I guess our reputation as being a rowdy crowd preceded us. Check out our neighbors?
Down the hall is the main offices (our doorway is at the end of the hallway).
Around the corner from The Bunker is the post office (the post master’s parents just happen to be from Etna, NH!, once again it is a small world), and the little grocery market with the open sign.
And at the other end of the hall is the laundromat, ATM, and the Notary who also happens to be the town sign maker who made all the lovely wooden signs and owns a neat little gift shop down by the harbor!
Downstairs is the Community Church and…
yes, another underground tunnel…this one connects BTI with the school! No cold walks to school when it is below zero and there is 12 feet of snow! Also in the basement is a room full of freezers. Most, we’ve bee told, are full of fish, shrimp and crabs and whatever was bought the last big shopping trip to Anchorage.

A lot of articles on the web call Whittier “The Community under one Roof”.

I wonder why?

 

 

Cold War Pink Tiles

Our mini condo is in the Begich Towers (formerly the Hodge Building when it was built during the Cold War). It has all the ameneties we need and we affectionately call it “The Bunker”.

 

A 50’s era pink tiled bathroom. Every bathroom in the building has the same original cold war era pink tile! I think it might be the same tile that was in my grandparents bathroom😃
And a kitchen/bedroom/media room all in one! We feel like we are back in college! We are even staying up late and sleeping in.
We even have a heated floor which is great for drying our wet clothes, but keeps the room so warm we have to run the fan!